Blog
The Architecture of Fragrance: Part 2 Innovation
Our most primitive sense is smell. It has the propensity to dictate roughly 75% of our daily emotions, allowing us to form opinions, vivid memories and perceptions. We actively choose to douse ourselves in fragrances, plot them throughout our homes and tether them irrevocably to milestone events in our lives. But how are they forged? In our explorative three-part blog series, ‘The Architecture Of Fragrance’, we’re tracing the creation of exquisite scents back to their origins. For this second instalment, we want to ascertain the ‘innovation’ of perfumery. How does a brief translate from paper to life, what is the science behind fragrance distilling and how exactly is a perfume assessed? THE PERFUMERS Our cadre of renowned perfumers are located worldwide, peppered throughout cities rich in culture, life and history like London, Paris, Munich, New York, Rio and Hong Kong. When we prepare a brief for a fragrance, we send it to one of Apsley and Company’s Account Managers, who then stows it in their database. After discerning what expertise the distinctive brief demands, they will then match the work to a highly-specialized perfumer. Like summoning Burberry for outerwear or Chanel for a little black dress, every bespoke perfume brief calls for an idiosyncratic, passionate perfumer. All the major perfume houses have data-rich portfolios, so even if a fragrance is developed by a perfumer in New York, the formula can easily be accessed by the rest of the organisation, anywhere in the world. Many of the larger perfumeries have library-like troves of fragrances as well, allowing for shortcuts in the development process. But we’re firm advocates for offering unique scents to our customers - we like to continuously create to ensure we will always have a point of difference with a new release. When it comes to the tactile process of creating that fragrance prototype, our labs are based in France, Germany and the US. THE PROCESS Depending on the complexity of the fragrance we’re striving to create, the innovation process can span anywhere from four weeks to three months before the testing phase commences. Trialling a fragrance across different applications is paramount, demanding patience, time and diligence. Sometimes, this testing period can take up to several months as we monitor the stability of a fragrance under a whole host of conditions. UV light, heat, cold and raw material sources can all have a profound impact on perfume, morphing its characteristics and governing its performance. It’s also important to note that the industry of fragrance is highly regulated. Apsley and Company must abide by the many rules and regulations synonymous with deriving raw materials for fragrances, as outlined by the IFRA (The International Fragrance Association). TROUBLESHOOTING The troubleshooting saga of fragrance development occurs during what we dub the ‘stability trail’. For some context, it’s crucial to remember that fragrance is designed for specific applications and can only be used in those applications - i.e. to be burnt in a soy wax candle or to be distilled into a diffuser. If you use the fragrance outside of these parameters, you risk failure. So, how do we sample test our prototypes? Normally, we receive one sample of the fragrance. Maybe we’ll tweak it by amplifying its sweetness, enriching its base or emboldening its musky undertones. Once this modification round is complete, the fragrance is then malleable to be tweaked for its diffuser, candle or room spray application. Once receiving the tick of approval, we move onto stability testing through three types of rigorous trials. One is housed in a temperature-controlled environment in the perfumers lab, another is undertaken in our factory where the perfume is tested within its application, and lastly we run a number of functionality trials to see how it performs in ‘natural conditions’ reminiscent of the home. A fragrance is passed after stability testing when it still smells exactly the same as the original fragrance sample after being trialled ‘in situ’. We also have to watch out for any reactions to the packaging that it will be sold in. Plastic and fragrance preservation don’t partner well, being one of the integral reasons Apsley and Company opt for glass encasings. Lastly, we monitor the nuances in a fragrance’s colour over time. Raw materials can change from season to season, leading, for example, for some citrus fragrances to be green-tinged one year and lemony in hue the next. Our process of ‘innovation’ approaches the concept of fragrance design on a holistic level. We hope to have unearthed some of the intricate, behind-the-scenes magic that leads to the manifestation of the Apsley and Company fragrances you love. Be sure to read on for our third ‘The Architecture of Fragrance’ instalment, in which we guide you through the final destination of our fragrances’ trajectory - ‘In The Home’.
Learn more
How to host the ultimate summer soirée
As we welcome summer with a warm, swimsuit-clad embrace and a chilled glass of rosé in hand, the prospect of balmy evenings spent with excellent food, good vibes and great company feels palpable. But with myriad festivities ahead, the thought of home entertaining may get a little daunting. Welcoming loved ones into your home can be fraught with last minute stress, the pressure to get everything ‘right’, and the woes of disorganisation. Deep breaths. When throwing your next fabulous summer fete, here’s a few helpful (and oh-so simple) tips to hone those host(ess) skills and stay calm. Set the mood with Abode Aroma Who can forget those sacred pillars of entertaining? Ambiance and atmosphere. Homely summer gatherings aren’t complete without a divine fragrance for your guests to revel in. If French is the language of love, fragrance is the language of memory. A home that exudes personality through a captivating scent will spark a truly memorable fiesta for your nearest and dearest. For conjuring a dreamy atmosphere, turn to the simple touch of candlelight with one of Abode Aroma’s soy candles. For a touch of glow and a low-lit backdrop to the good times, strike a match as the sun begins to set and enjoy the gentle flicker of a candle . If it’s ambiance you’re longing to achieve, reach for a potent Abode Aroma reed diffuser. Perhaps you’re drawn to wafts of Fresh Fig, bursting with ripe, fruity aromas, or your home pairs perfectly with a Lemongrass fragrance, exuding a crisp fusion of Eastern wildflowers, cedar and fresh basil. Finding a scent that feels bespoke to your haven will enthral your guests as they enter peripheral areas such as the bathroom. The Power of a Glorious Grazing Plate Magnificent cheese platters are a classic hallmark of all summery get-togethers. Think rustic, wooden boards swathed in salami and fresh market gems such as soft cheeses, colourful dips, juicy fruits and crunchy grissini sticks. A share-style grazing plate or table serves as a failsafe, striking antidote to entertaining woes. Don't forget the music Music is a must. While feasting and catching up over a clamour of conversations, set the tempo low to avoid any major distractions. But, when the dinner party transcends into a dance floor, press play on a favourite Spotify playlist (think ‘All Out 80s’), old CD or your own tailor-made lineup of tunes. Keep your portable speakers charged up, and prepare before the party ensemble arrive. May your drinks be ever-flowing Make sure to prepare potent party juice, tempered with plenty of water and mocktails for a fruity alternative to the real stuff. When it comes to catering beverages at summer’s hot peak, more is always more. With a bar cart fully locked and loaded, invite guests to DIY their drinks, or create a delectable punch bowl for visitors to ladle on arrival. Think Pimms replete with citrus fruits and hoards of ice, fresh mojitos in glass tumblers topped with mint leaves, or an Aperol Spritz station adorned with orange segments. Keep the menu seasonal, tonal & vibrant As much as every budding entertainer would love to morph into Nigella Lawson for the night, it’s important to resist feeling the pressure. If cooking is your forte, excellent. If you feel slightly off- kilter in the kitchen, especially when entertaining, stick to your guns and serve up what you know best. A menu rife with kaleidoscopic colours, fresh produce, any relevant dietary tweaks and crowd-pleasing dishes will go down a treat. If all else fails, strive for a rainbow of salads and brilliantly BBQ’d meats, followed by a juicy fruit platter and ice cream for dessert. On the next sweltering summer evening, approach your get-together with an air of ‘cool’. From finishing touches of intoxicating scents, to icy cascades of drinks for guests on arrival, we know you’re now set to helm nights steeped in laughter, ambiance and fun.
Learn more
Apsley Reed Diffusers Independently proven to last between 30% to 300% longer then International Competitors
Our Abode Aroma, Apsley & Company, and Scented Space diffusers have recently been tested by Eurofins Environment Testing Australia Pty Ltd. Independently pitted against top international selling brands, the results have revealed that they last between an impressive 30% and 300% longer than international competitors. Cue the round of applause! Ranking no.1, we rose to the occasion when tested against some of the Diffuser World's biggest names, including True Grace, Archipelago, Marks & Spencer, The Aromatherapy Co, Glasshouse and more. While we’re all accustomed to choosing our home fragrances based on those vital first impressions of aesthetic and smell, there’s actually many variables that can affect the performance of your product. Our signature room fragrance diffusers are made using a proprietary, uber high-quality formulation of 90% fragrance oil and 10% food-grade ethanol derived from the cassava plant. We’ve donned the lab coats and science goggles to divulge what goes into making the crème de la crème of diffusers. It’s a lot more complex than you may think... The actual diffuser formulation plays a major role in the longevity of your signature scent. If it includes water and high levels of alcohol, it’ll disappear pretty quickly. This tends to be why the cheap and cheerful diffusers in the discount shops are so inexpensive: you’re basically buying water and very cheap alcohol in a glass bottle. Not ideal, right? Climatic conditions of the room where your dream diffuser is placed is oh-so important. Hot, dry areas in direct sunlight equate to speedy evaporation. Heeding caution to open doors and windows will keep the diffuser at its best, and ensure it keeps on giving! When it comes to the number and length of the diffuser wicks or reeds, less is more. More wicks means more surface area for the fragrance to diffuse from, and this will reduce longevity. Again, the longer the wick, the more surface area for the fragrance to diffuse from, shortening your diffuser lifespan. The type of reed or wick used can majorly influence the fragrance throw. Natural reeds from rattan (plants) require turning more frequently as they dry out rather quickly. Wicks, however, tend to require less flipping as the raw material of the wick holds more diffuser liquid than a reed will. The frequency with which the reeds or wicks are flipped. Now, this is a delicate balancing act. The more you flip, the quicker the evaporation, but the less you flip, the less potent your beautiful fragrance will waft around the house. That’s why we recommend a ‘flipping’ ritual of roughly once a week. Let’s talk about the type of fragrance. Not all fragrances are created as one, and the style of fragrance can impact longevity. (Think about what differentiates your favourite perfume from a transient body mist). Citrusy fragrances have a molecular structure that means the ‘bubbles’ are big, so they’ll evaporate really quickly when compared to those deliciously smoky, vanilla and amber type of scents which have a tightly concentrated structure. The opening at the top of the diffuser bottle determines evaporation rates. The more open, the greater the evaporation, and just like your no.1 wine, the liquid will also oxidise (causing a change in colour). Luckily, this doesn’t affect the scent in the same way it does with that chardonnay! We’re extremely pleased to share that when scientifically tested, our reed diffusers are unrivalled in both fragrance and longevity, so you can revel in your favourite scent for as long as possible. As it turns out, victory smells a lot like delicious notes of gardenia, fresh fig and crisp linen!
Learn more